Tool used by blacksmith

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Blacksmith Guillotin Medieval smiths were economical and used scrap materials to create their smaller tools like bits and nails, which are discussed below. Blacksmiths used tools of varying shapes and sizes, and sometimes relied on the help of apprentices to help turn metal into functional items.

Although some tools evolved between the early and late middle ages, many remained unchanged and are still essential to blacksmiths working today. It was usually constructed of stone and contained the fuel and fire required for heating iron. Medieval blacksmiths used charcoal in their forges because it was inexpensive and readily available. The blacksmith held metal over the fire until it was heated enough and used the following tools to manipulate the metal into an endless array of items.

Medieval blacksmiths used anvils to shape metal heated in their forge. The anvil stood close to the forge to allow for the easy transfer of hot materials. Anvils were crafted from heavy iron and contained a variety of angles and surfaces on which metal could be shaped.

Some medieval blacksmiths traveled from village to village to find more work and promote their capabilities.

Especially prior to the rise of village blacksmiths, the few smiths working outside of castles were in high demand in neighboring communities.

Forge wagons contained a lighter-weight, portable forge that could be used and transported with ease. Traveling blacksmiths would pack a smaller assortment of tools that could be used to make an array of items, but were still light enough to be carried on the forge wagon. The invention of bellows was significant to the efficiency and safety of medieval blacksmiths and their apprentices.

This process also introduced the carbon required for transforming iron into hardy steel. Prior to the invention of bellows, blacksmiths in the early middle ages enlisted their apprentices to blow on the fire through small tubes. This not only slowed the process of heating metal, but was less effective and potentially dangerous, as it required apprentices to put their faces extremely close to the flame.

All these styles of files come in varying lengths and coarseness. Other files are also available, but these seem to be the most common. Length is an important consideration when choosing a file, and most smiths prefer longer files. They last longer and each stroke of the file is more efficient. A good rule of thumb is to use large coarse files first to take away the bulk of the material.

Then, use smaller and less coarse files to do the finish work. Like sandpaper, files come in varying degrees of coarseness. This can be confusing to the uninitiated, but easily searchable online if you forget.

Otherwise, just refer back to this article for a quick reminder. The bastard-cut is the coarsest and the smooth-cut is the most refined. The Flat File is flat on both sides and can file on all sides including the edges. Flat files can be purchased without file marks along the edge. A file without teeth along the edge is a Safe-Edge file. Half-Round files are flat on one side and round on the other.

They have sharp edges on either side where the round transitions to the flat. Most of the files described above are classified as being a Taper File , meaning the tip is narrower than the base at the handle. This is advantageous when working with more complex surfaces. They give the user more options allowing them to do more without needing to change files. The opposite of a tapered file is a Blunt File.

A blunt file has a constant width with parallel edges. This uniformity can be important if consistency is a requirement. There are many other shapes and types of files. For example, Swiss Pattern files are also available in seven grades of coarseness and are very effective and popular for finish work.

Blacksmiths use Chisels and Sets to cut both cold and hot metal. Chisels come in two varieties, one meant to cut hot metal and the other cold. Cold chisels need to take the abuse of hitting cold-hard steel so they are short and stout. Hot chisels are longer and thinner.

This is both because it is easier to work with hot metal, but also because of radiant heat. A longer chisel allows the hand holding the chisel to be farther away from the anvil keeping that hand cooler. Sets are also used to cut hot and cold steel. In essence, they are chisels with handles.

They are also similar in the fact that cold sets are short and stout while hot sets are long and the cutting edge comes to a narrower point. The handles can be made out of wood or using metal rods, and both handles have their advantages and have a place in the shop.

Some blacksmiths report that wood handled sets are more comfortable than metal-rod handles and others prefer wood for handwork and metal when using a power hammer. A Hardy or Hardie is a heavy-duty chisel with a square shank that fits into a square hole in an anvil. Not coincidentally, that hole on the anvil is called a Hardy Hole. The chisel is used to cut off hot steel, and can also be used to mark cold steel for future purposes.

Other tools are also used in the hardy hole provided they too have a square shank that matches the dimensions of the hardy hole in the anvil. These include Top and Bottom Fullers and Swages. Punches come in a variety of shapes to include round, octagonal, or even square, but they all accomplish the same thing. The purpose of a punch is to create a hole while removing a minimum amount of material. A punch is hammered into hot material from either side of a piece until a hole is formed and swelled to match the size and shape of the punch.

Punches are long to keep your hand away from the hot metal. They can be held with the hand and some have handles that are convenient if working with a power hammer or treadle hammer.

Drifts are the shorter stronger little brother to punches. They also can be of any shape desired and are hammered into a hole to attain the desired size and shape. If you have ever watched a blacksmith make a hammer, then you have probably seen punches and drifts in action. First, they punch an eye, then they use a drift to size the hole for the handle. Often, they will use a pinch of coal dust or special drifting-grease to help prevent the drift from getting stuck in the opening. A more severe example of this is when a smith forges the opening or an ax.